Stephen Burrows (1943-)
A Trailblazer in Fashion and Cultural Icon
Burrows is known as the first African-American fashion designer to sell internationally and develop a mainstream, high-fashion clientele. He is best known for his bright colours and “lettuce hem” curly details that became an integral part of the disco scene in New York in the 70s. He was one of only five American fashion designers to showcase their work at the historical Battle of Versailles Fashion Show in Paris. Not only was he selected but he was as well over a decade younger than all the other American participants. In 1978, Farrah Fawcett wore Burrow’s gold chainmail dress to the Academy Awards where she was a presenter and in 1981, the 15-year old Brooke Shields appeared on the cover of Cosmopolitan wearing his design.Stephen Burrows, born on September 15, 1943, in Newark, New Jersey, is a groundbreaking African-American fashion designer whose influence has shaped the world of fashion. Known for his vibrant color palettes, daring designs, and signature “lettuce hem” detailing, Burrows emerged as a defining figure in 1970s New York City, intertwining fashion with the exuberance of the disco era.
Early Life and Education
Burrows showed an early passion for creativity and artistry. Encouraged by his family, he attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City, where he honed his skills and developed a design philosophy rooted in boldness and innovation. Upon graduation, he quickly immersed himself in the city’s burgeoning fashion scene.
Career Breakthrough and Signature Style
Stephen Burrows gained recognition in the late 1960s when he began working at Henri Bendel, a luxury department store in New York City. There, he introduced his playful, body-conscious designs characterized by fluid fabrics, asymmetry, and his iconic “lettuce hem,” a wavy, rolled hemline that became synonymous with his work.
His designs celebrated movement and individuality, making them an instant hit among the era’s fashion-forward clientele. Burrows’ use of vivid colors—often inspired by his love for music and dance—helped define the visual aesthetic of the disco movement. His work was frequently seen on dance floors, embodying the energy and freedom of the time.
Major Achievements
One of Burrows’ most notable career milestones came in 1973 when he was invited to participate in the Battle of Versailles Fashion Show in Paris. This historic event pitted five American designers against five French couturiers in a bid to elevate American fashion on the global stage. Burrows, the youngest participant by more than a decade, stood out for his innovative designs and his inclusive runway casting, which featured Black models prominently. The success of the show cemented his reputation as a global fashion pioneer.
In 1978, Farrah Fawcett wore a gold chainmail dress designed by Burrows to the Academy Awards, catapulting his designs into the Hollywood spotlight. In 1981, a 15-year-old Brooke Shields appeared on the cover of Cosmopolitan wearing one of his creations, further cementing his status as a designer of choice for celebrities and style icons.
Awards and Honors
Over the years, Burrows has received numerous accolades for his contributions to fashion. These include:
- Cotton Incorporated Award (1973): Recognizing his innovative use of cotton in fashion.
- Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Award (1980): Honoring his outstanding design achievements.
- Fashion Walk of Fame Induction (2003): Celebrating his lasting influence on the fashion industry.
- National Arts Club Medal of Honor for Fashion (2014): Acknowledging his creative legacy.
Impact and Legacy
Stephen Burrows broke barriers as one of the first African-American designers to achieve mainstream success, both domestically and internationally. His bold designs and commitment to diversity redefined the boundaries of high fashion, paving the way for future generations of designers of color. His work has been displayed in major exhibitions, including at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.
Personal Life and Current Status
Though Burrows has always been private about his personal life, his passion for design and dedication to creativity remain evident. Today, he continues to influence the fashion world, with retrospectives celebrating his contributions and designs inspiring new generations of creators.
Stephen Burrows remains a towering figure in the history of fashion, remembered not just for his innovative designs but also for his ability to challenge and transform the industry’s standards. His enduring legacy is a testament to his trailblazing spirit and unmatched talent.