Arthur George “Art” Smith (1917–1982
Gold and Silver Smith
First Black Jewelry Designer
Trailblazer in Jewelry Design and Artistic Expression
Arthur “Art” Smith (1917–1982) was a groundbreaking jewelry designer whose innovative and modernist creations made him a prominent figure in the art and design world. Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, Smith’s journey was marked by artistic brilliance, cultural advocacy, and resilience in the face of racial and societal challenges. His work not only redefined the boundaries of jewelry design but also championed the integration of African and Caribbean cultural motifs into modern art.
Early Life and Education
Smith was born in 1917 in Cuba, and his family relocated to Brooklyn, New York, in 1920. Displaying exceptional artistic talent from a young age, he received his first recognition in eighth grade, earning an honorable mention in a poster contest organized by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.
Encouraged to pursue art, Smith earned a scholarship to the prestigious Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art. As one of the few Black students at the institution, he initially pursued architecture but shifted to commercial art and sculpture, finding these fields more aligned with his creative inclinations.
Early Career and Mentorship
After graduating in 1940, Smith worked with the National Youth Administration and Junior Achievement, organizations dedicated to empowering young people through employment opportunities. A night course in jewelry making at New York University ignited his passion for the craft, and his friendship with Black jewelry designer Winifred Mason proved pivotal. Mason mentored Smith, offering him the opportunity to work in her Greenwich Village studio, where he honed his skills and developed his signature style.
Building a Legacy
In 1946, with financial support from an unlikely source, Smith opened his first studio on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village. Despite facing racial hostility in the area, he persevered and relocated to West Fourth Street, where he found a more welcoming environment among the bohemian and artistic community.
Smith’s bold and avant-garde designs attracted attention from major retailers, including Bloomingdale’s and boutique stores across the United States. His creations were celebrated for their sculptural qualities, drawing inspiration from African and Caribbean art, as well as his experiences designing jewelry for modern dance performances.
Prominent Clients and Notable Achievements
Smith’s artistic circle included cultural luminaries such as James Baldwin, Lena Horne, Harry Belafonte, and Billy Strayhorn. His collaborations with choreographers like Talley Beatty and Pearl Primus expanded his creative repertoire, as he designed jewelry for their performances.
Among his notable commissions were a brooch for Eleanor Roosevelt, created for the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) in Peekskill, New York, and cufflinks for Duke Ellington, featuring notes from the iconic jazz composition Mood Indigo.
In the 1950s, Smith gained national recognition with features in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and The New Yorker. His distinctive advertisements in The New Yorker further solidified his reputation as a premier modernist jeweler.
Honors and Legacy
In 1969, Smith was honored with a solo exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Crafts in New York, and in 1970, his work was included in the influential traveling exhibition Objects: USA. Posthumously, his contributions have been celebrated through major exhibitions, including:
- Arthur Smith: A Jeweler’s Retrospective at the Jamaica Arts Center in Queens, NY (1990).
- Sculpture to Wear: Art Smith and His Contemporaries at the Gansevoort Gallery, NYC (1998).
- From the Village to Vogue at the Brooklyn Museum (2008).
Smith’s work is also prominently featured in the book Messengers of Modernism: American Studio Jewelry 1940–1960 by Toni Greenbaum, underscoring his role as a pivotal figure in the studio jewelry movement.
Philanthropy and Cultural Impact
Smith was deeply committed to empowering marginalized communities through art. He was a vocal advocate for cultural representation and used his platform to elevate African and Caribbean aesthetics within the modernist framework. His work remains a symbol of resilience and creativity, breaking barriers for Black artists in a predominantly white industry.
Final Years and Enduring Influence
After suffering a heart attack in the 1960s, Smith’s health began to decline. He closed his shop in 1979 and passed away in 1982. Despite his relatively short life, Smith’s legacy endures, influencing generations of artists and designers. His ability to merge artistry with cultural heritage has left an indelible mark on the worlds of jewelry and modern design.
Arthur “Art” Smith’s life and work stand as a testament to the power of creativity and perseverance, inspiring future generations to challenge conventions and celebrate diversity in art and design.
Exhibitions and Collections
During his lifetime, Art Smith’s jewelry gained significant recognition, with features in prestigious publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. His innovative designs were also showcased in an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Crafts, solidifying his reputation as a leading modernist jeweler.
Following his death, Smith’s legacy has continued to flourish. From 2008 to 2011, his work was honored with a dedicated exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum. His creations are now part of the permanent collections of esteemed institutions, including the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, the Museum of Arts and Design in New York, and the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
The value of Smith’s artistry remains high in the market; one of his pieces sold for an impressive $22,000. Additionally, a prominent cufflink collector once described Smith’s cufflinks as the most valuable items in their collection, further highlighting his enduring impact on the world of jewelry design.